Thursday, July 2, 2009

The Wall

We met around lunch in the Hostel. There were four of us. We did not know the bus schedule or how many buses ran a day so we were in a bit of a hurry. Two of us had not eaten and we were to grab some dumplings on the way, but when we passed the dumpling stalls they were already closed. This caused some minor issues. We took the Subway to the Bus Depot and found the right queue. There were tons of people waiting for the bus and we decided to hop in the line instead of get food then. We did not know the bus schedule.

The bus came, and somehow all four of us made it on. We drove for 1-2 hours, sorry I did not keep track, and arrived at a small town outside of Beijing. There we needed to catch another bus to take us to a village and the Great Wall. We did not know how to catch the bus, and in this regard the Lonely Planet was not helping us a Great Deal. We grabbed a quick meal, we grabbed some ice cream, and then one of our crew negotiated in Mandarin for a car to take us to the village. It was a reasonable price for the distance. 1.5 hours later we arrived.

We picked up some supplies at the last store and then headed for the Wall. On our way there we picked up another traveller who was on her own. She did not plan on spending the night, but due to the bus schedule it appeared as she had to. We said she could eat and drink with us if she wanted to tag along. She did.

We were dropped off at the side of the road where the wall had been demolished to let the road go through. We fought off people selling useless trinkets and then walked along the outside of the wall beside a reservoir and to some shacks where we were charged 2 Yuan per person (30ish cents CAD). We continued up the hill to the first guard tower. There there was a ladder leading up the Wall and into a window of the tower. On the inside of the wall there was a staircase leading to the ground, but, we were on the outside.

The wall there had been restored, and it was something to see. On the way to the road we could see a bride and groom with a photographer taking photos. And on the other side we could see our great adventure. It was already relatively late in the day so we began our trek. The wall was in great condition since it had been rebuilt and it was easy hiking. Most of the wall was like a big ramp, and when it got very steep it turned into a staircase with platforms on the sides for defenders. There were guard towers every so often. I was told by our newest recruit that the guard towers were spaced so that if each tower fired an arrow inwards it would just overlap with the other, meaning that even if only the towers were manned the wall would be defended.

We continued passed a number of towers and then stopped at one. We decided to stop because the sun was sinking, because based on our map there was only one more tower to hike passed on this route, and because we could see two people (the only other tourists we had seen all day) already camped out at the next tower. This tower would be home.

We watched the sun set, and while there was still light me and the newest recruit took the staircase to the inside of the wall and tried to get some wood from the brush. There was not much to choose from. Everything was green and wet, and there was no deadfall. Trees were sparse and almost everything was just some kind of bush, likely due to the dry climate. We did find some wood, but were very lucky that there was some left from the last groups fire.

With the last rays of light I set about making a fire. I volunteered and no one else offered. I get the feeling that I have done it more than the rest, they were all from Europe with one from Israel, and I think that I have gained more fire starting experience in the Rockies than there. When the light was gone I lit the pyre and watched our guard tower become immersed in firelight. We did not have much wood, but I was able to keep us a fire for a few hours.

We ate, we relaxed, and when the fire went out we rested. None of us had sleeping bags. Only one of us brought a blanket. We simply laid down on the wall and slept.

Sunrise was early, and were were up for it. There was a slight break and then we got moving. The sky was clear that day and it would get very hot very soon. We opted to be on the move long before that point. We ascended the final peak of our hike and met the two guys atop the final guard tower. After a short break at the top we began the long descent down to the gate and road that was the end of the restored part of the wall. Pieces of the wall were missing here and we found ourselves climbing down short cliffs and impossible slopes. Somehow we made it.

With the end in sight we split up for a while. Some of us wanted to relax, and some of us wanted to hit the bottom and the try to climb the unrestored part of the wall. We did. At first it was difficult because of the vegetation growing all over the place, but soon there was a path, and soon after we were at the first guard tower. Had we more time we could have continued as the path did along the wall, but the first guard tower on the unrestored section was my goal.

We all met at the road and then headed back to town. There was one minor engagement with a farmer whose land we needed to pass through. The negotiations in Mandarin were fierce and the farmer did not seem to want to negotiate. His guard dogs were roaring on the other side of the fence; their tails were not wagging. After getting him down to 10 Yuan per person we paid and enjoyed a long walk through his lands back to the village.

We ate, and we stood by the side of the road waiting. When the bus came we flagged it down and hopped on. It dropped us off in the town, and we caught the bus to Beijing. It was a quiet return to the capital, and even I managed to sleep some on the bus.

Most of us met for some Peking Duck and then we retired. The Duck was excellent, but due to some conflicts within the group the supper was actually not that enjoyable.

The next day I went to the Silk Market. It is something like seven stories of stores who are all willing to negotiate and barter. The actual value here seems to be somewhere around 10% of the asking price which means the negotiations are long and tough. I find that very tiring. I bought some souvenirs and then was on my way.

Back at the Hostel three of us gathered and then headed off to the Olympic Park. We saw the Birdsnest Stadium, and when we got to the Water Cube we went inside and swam there. It is not important, but it is fun to think that I have swam in the same pools as the Olympic champions.

We returned for another meal of Peking Duck. I figured that it would be harder to get at home, so I may as well gorge.

I was up early the next day packing. I think my 11 roommates were not so thrilled with that. I loaded up with my bags, hopped on the Subway and made it to the airport. It was amazing to think that I was on my way home already.

I left Beijing at 4:00 pm on Sunday June 28th, and I arrived in Calgary at 4:13 pm on Sunday June 28th.

I was picked up, and taken home.

It was a good trip, but my body is ready for a break from it. My back needs some work, and I have lost a great deal of weight , much of which will have to be put back on.

Time to recover, and then I can plan my next great adventure.