As always you can get to the photo albums by clicking on the links on the left of the page, or here for the
Philippines, and here for
South Korea. Please note that these also include my trip movies so feel free to peruse, or not, at your convenience.
On that note photos and movies are interspersed seemingly randomly throughout... movies are indicated with a "Movie" icon in the lower left corner of the picture... and they mostly seem to have my face on the front so you can't miss 'em!
I will try to make this concise... not too concise, because that is boring, but not too not concise because frankly you might nod off to sleep. I will try to let my photos do the talking, and in my oh so informative videos I can do the talking... also... most longest blog ever...
And so, the adventure went like this...
The Philippines
Biliran
Saturday November 12/Sunday November13th, 2011
I avoided getting a cell phone for a long time, and when I did get one I avoided using one. When I went to New Brunswick I got a Blackberry and my addiction started. Now at work, where I am required to carry my phone just about all the time, I am nearly glued to that irritating little communication device. That was the first thing I noticed. I left early enough to get to the airport with lots of time, factoring in the frozen rains on the road, and once I had cleared security I was alone. I'll admit, it was uncomfortable for a while, but then I remembered that that was how life should be lived.
With that in mind I took out my pen and began to write.
My journey would take me from Edmonton to Vancouver to Seoul and finally to Cebu City in the Philippines. When you add all that together it ends up being a looooong flight. I have no idea of how many time zones I crossed, or even what day it was when I landed, but I did eventually make it. I did not sleep on the flight though, so I was kind of a wreck when I made it... but I made it.
Monday November 14th, 2011
I landed at just about midnight and my friend and teacher Colin picked me up at the airport (thank goodness, I couldn't find him for a few minutes and it really had me worried), and we headed to the Diplomat Hotel. We caught up a little bit but it was not long before my need of sleep caught up with me.
In the morning we grabbed a quick meal, and then left Cebu City on a ferry from the Weesam Terminal. It was about a 3 hour ride to Ormoc, on the island of Layte, and it was smooth sailing the entire way (literally). In Ormoc we did a large chunk of what would be our grocery shopping for the following two weeks, and then we took Colin's car (which sputtered as it started and groaned as it turned) as we headed up towards the island of Biliran.
Driving with Colin
En Route to Matanggo
A Flurry of Fields
V-Hire
It was busy when I arrived in the middle of the night in Cebu, and as the evening neared it was busy as we made our way to Biliran and onwards. It turns out that people drive primarily on motor bikes and human powered tricycles and that the vast majority of these vehicles do not have lights of any sort. Other than the chaos, driving at daytime was not too bad, but as the sun set things turned just plain crazy. The things that people will do to get from one place to another! And without helmets!!!
The Watkin Crest ("Say and Do")
Colin lives in the village of Matanggo, in the barangay of Almeria, on the island of Biliran. Driving through the terrifying night we eventually made it there. I gave the gifts I had to my gracious hosts and we had a lovely meal. Before long I was off to bed.
I had been told that you cannot climb the mountain because of snakes and whatnot (and the snakes' venom to which there was no antidote in timely driving distance...), but when I asked Colin said he would try and find a guide for me... people didn't often go up the mountain, but if could be done!
Tuesday November 15th, 2011
Jocelyn (Colin's partner) made us pancakes for breakfast and then we headed into the largest town on the island, Naval (Nav-all... not Naval like Ships, but like Nav... all... Actually it is based on Naval like ships but said all foreign accent like). We shopped for some essentials and then sat down with some ex-pats. The foreigners seem to stick together quite a bit, perhaps because they understand each other better, or perhaps because as a foreigner most Philippinos tend to stare which can isolate a person.
Fish Market
Naval
Naval Fish Market
Naval Meat Market
Anyways, I learned that the rumours about foreigners seem to be true. People leave the developed world and head to the Philippines for two reasons it seems: one, "stop the world, I'm getting off," and two, to get a newer younger model that you can trade in every few years. Our discussion with the ex-pats did not make me feel very good about foreigners. Some of them genuinely love it there, and if they find love it is genuine. Some of them just use dollar signs to get them a little "love." ;) ;)
Before we headed back we had a quick lunch where I had goat... mmm...
Paradise Island
Relaxin'
In Awe of Paradise
Shane Angelo
Through the Leaves
We stopped at Agta Beach Resort for a quick photo then it was not long before we were at Colin's house and in the garden. I spent hours just taking photos of flowers. Many of the flowers that Colin grows happen to grow in Canada as well... in pots... inside my house. To see the flowers out and about was incredible. Colin's garden is well taken care of, but beyond the fence you can see into the lush jungle. If you want to know what it looks like just imagine the stereotypical deserted island with coconuts and bananas growing wild... yeah, that's what it looks like.
Palms
Red Mystery Flower
Caballero Flowers
Parrot Flowers
Pulling Down a Banana
A Clean Cut
A True Bird of Paradise
A Red Hibiscus
A Yellow Hibiscus
A Pink Dangly Hibiscus
Yeah... we have these in pots back home... um... Pretty Blueish Flower
Orchids
Some Kind of Cup Flower
Pink Danglies
White Flowers
Bits of Red
Sweet Hanging Red Flower
Shrimp Flowers
Small White Flowers
Flower at Night
The Tiniest Blue Whatsit (Yeah, the fuzzball is a bug that is crawling around)
Banana and Flower
Wednesday November 16th, 2011
In no particular order... at some point we visited the village where Jocelyn's family lives. It is a tiny place where the people are greatly impoverished. It is a strange situation where people are nearly starving, but they all have mobile phones... Anyways, we took a look around, bought some fish from some fisherman just coming in (it doesn't get fresher than that) and then headed back. One thing of note is that Jocelyn's brother Reuben (who actually lived just south of Calgary for a year doing some work) was building himself a new boat. That's hardcore; in the Philippines you don't buy a boat, you build one.
Reuben's New Boat
A Village Street
Chained Monkey (Pet or Meal, its Impossible to Know)
Craftsman
Fresh Sales
Buying Fish in the Village
The Village
Stream
Homes
Barbecued Fish
Supper (uh... not in chronological order with this post)
Supper of the Fish (also not in chronological order)
The rest of the day was spent selling the pigs (which was incredible as two men and two pigs headed off into the distance on a motor bike), training in Kage Ryu under the tutelage of Watkin Sensei, followed by a fresh mango shake.
One of the Pigs
Up the Stairs
Tying the Pigs
Getting Ready to Go
Pigs Away
That night we went outside to see the fireflies. I have only seen fireflies once before in my life, and to see them in such numbers... incredible.
Thursday November 17th, 2011
Onshore Onlooker
Stored and Waiting
Moored
En Route to Dalutan
Heading Out Snorkeling
Me (Feat. Sea and Philippines... and Reuben)
En Route
Dying to get out of the Boat
Armed and Dangerous
Coral in the Shallows
Reuben finds Oysters
Reuben's Oysters
My Chonchy Thing
Looking for Treasure
Waiting
Polar Bear Treasure!
The Back of Dalutan
We got Reuben to take us out in his boat (his old one, not the one he was building) to see some of the nearby islands and to go snorkeling. It is sad to see the garbage floating in the water near the villages, but as we got further out the water became clearer and clearer until everything appeared untouched. We passed some other fishermen on our way and we headed to the backside of an island we could see from shore (named Dalutan). We had been told that this are had been dynamited for fishing but that it was starting to grow back. This was a good place to start. We threw on our gear (Colin had a wetsuit that conveniently fit me) and we hopped into the water. Amazing. To think that Colin lives so close to such wonders. The coral had indeed recovered from the dynamite and I was able to see things that I've only seen on discovery channel, or perhaps simply dreamed of. I have snorkeled extensively in Mexico, but this was a whole different ball game. Beside the zillions of fish and whatnot, a few items of note were a long sea snake (maybe 1.5 metres long, and evidently incredibly poisonous if it bites you -- which is infrequent because its jaw can only open wide enough to bite your ear lobe of the webbing between your fingers), a jellyfish that had the electric colours of the rainbow rolling down its back with every spark, and a sea slug with some kind of dealy on its head that resembled a white Christmas tree with black spots. I cannot possible convey all of the wonders I saw, and I have no photos to show. I can only recommend that one day you head over to see for yourself.
We snorkeled for a good long while, and when we came up Reuben had found a bag of oysters (um... he found a bunch of oysters and put them in a bag... not like... he found a bag of oysters in the sea...). It was funny actually, we didn't see anything and yet he managed to find the shellfish hidden throughout the coral. Afterwards Colin and I found some conch like things that were evidently edible and we brought them up.
Dalutan Resort
The Front of Dalutan
Paradise
One of a Kind
Reuben's Oysters
Reuben Opening the Oysters
Oysters... Fresh!
Eating Oysters!
Hermit Crab
See... I was there!
On the front side of the island there is a pristine beach. The beach is pristine because there are people who take care of it for a slight fee. We paid the fee, ate the lunch that Jocelyn had prepared, and had raw oysters, caught and shelled by Reuben. Wow, that is how to live. You can't really get seafood fresher than that.
After lunch we continued our adventure to another island, called Tingkasan Island. On the back of this island there is actually a cave. The cave was just large enough to get the boat in, and as we went in, hundreds of bats went out. Evidently they didn't like us very much and they made quite the commotion. It was incredible. I tried to take some photos, and I tried to take some video, but who knows what turned out. All I know is that my memory is perfect (for now) and I can remember sitting in the boat watching the bats fly chaotically around us, and I can remember walking into the end of the cave and praying not to be too "blessed" with guano. This is the stuff you see on Discovery Channel; this is the stuff you see in my life.
The Cave
Entering the Bat Cave
Inside the Cave (the roof of the cave looks lumpy... each lump is a bat's head...)
Bats!
Inside the Bat Cave
My Friends
We headed to another spot to snorkel, saw some more amazing things, and headed to the beach for a break. I picked up some of the most spectacular pieces of coral on the beach and we enjoyed fresh coconut that Reuben had retrieved from a rather high tree. I would love to show you the coral but alas it was confiscated on my way out of the country -- I'll chalk that up to protectionism since dead coral on the beach is usually not protected...
A Biliran Beach
Beaches of Coral
Relaxing in the Cove
Cove on Biliran
It was an amazing day to say the least!
Maripipi Island
Perseverance
The Village
The Sinking Sun
Conchy Things!
Cooking Conch Things
p.s. Jocelyn cooked up the conch things Colin and I found... evidently they were quite old (as in age, not freshness, cause really, doesn't get fresher than that), thus making them a little tough. It was kinda like chewing on a car tire, but, with the pleasant taste of conch instead of rubber. Jocelyn gave me a smaller shellfish to try, that either she or Reuben found, and it was much more tender...
Friday November 18th, 2011
We headed to Naval (did you say it correctly?!), which seemed to be a miracle since the car always seems to barely start, to get some essentials and headed to an Internet Cafe, where I sent you that last note. We got what we needed, including fish, food, and more importantly Pepsi, and headed back.
The rest of the day was spent training Kage Ryu. It was not too hot but it was always in the high 20's or low 30's and seeing as I usually sweat when I am training here at 0 degrees I was pouring sweat off in the Philippines. Actually... my sleeves, where the sweat seemed to gather, always had a rapid dripping or even constant trickle of water running off them. Special. Fortunately Jocelyn helped keep Sensei and I hydrated and energized with fresh fruit shakes (the fruit being from the garden) and Fudgies ('nuff said).
At some point we went on the following walk:
A Near Neighbour
Guards
Terraces up the Mountain
Grazing Carabao
A Gecko Back Home
Saturday November 19th, 2011
Let's set the scene, I was one week into my vacation in the Philippines, I was covered in bug bites, heat rash, and some kind of breakout which appears to be my skin rejecting being in a habitable location. To some that sounds like trouble, but to me it sounds like adventure. Don't get me wrong, it is a strange thing to be woken up because your are scratching your leg, and to not be able to get to sleep because of the itch that resulted from your unconscious self's actions, but this is living. This is what life is about, and this is what makes you remember. Long after you forget the beauty and the culture you will remember that !@$# itch... and you will smile.
Jocelyn had arranged for one of the locals to pick me up on his motorbike. He had his helmet hanging on the handlebars and I hoped like hell my Tilley could protect me. Part of driving in a country like the Philippines is having faith. It is almost better just to close your eyes and have faith that the driver drives there all the time, and no matter how crazy the maneuvers appear, they are safe and effective... ish...
Back to the story, this driver was to take me to some of the islands beautiful waterfalls. The island is completely volcanic and it goes from the sea to the tips of the volcanos. There is no shortage of springs on the island and the streams and rivers are everywhere. We were going to such a river, so called the Bagongbong River, and thus, the Bagongbong Falls (by the way, you should say that out loud about now, it is far more entertaining that you could ever imagine).
Terraces
Biking to Bagongbong
Biking Through Caucab (a typical village)
We raced down the skinny one lane road to the main two lane road. We dodged other bikes and trucks and pedestrians and turned up the single lane road to Caucab. We were up and through the village and beyond in no time. We were heading further and further up the mountain (still less than half way up I'll warrant) until the road vanished. I took this opportunity to take a few photos as it is actually quite difficult to take photos on a motor bike... they all look kinda like "whoosh."
The Sea
On Foot to Bagongbong
Still on Foot
Into the Gorge
Welcome
Arriving at Bagongbong
The Canopy of Bagonbong Falls
Bagongbong Falls
Swimming
I made it soooo close to the Waterfall!
Swimming Debrief
Vines and Roots
Through the Roots
Exhausted and out of the Gorge
It was a beautiful landscape. Everywhere was the tropical jungle. On one side there was the volcano (Mount Panamao sp.?) and on the other was the ocean. The only places the jungle was gone was where it had been carved into clean terraces with rice growing like wild (four harvests a year). Ahead of us I could see the valley that the river had carved in the stone and that was where we headed. Let me tell you, the walk down was wayyyyyy easier than the walk back up, but being excited and heading downwards, I didn't think about that too much.
The falls were beautiful. I could explain here but check the photo... the river just shot out into space with probably a 10 metre drop into a beautiful pool and eventually down the mountain. I didn't think immediately about the current caused by such a waterfall, but it was substantial. I might not have though immediately, but I found out quite soon as I shucked off my shirt and headed into the warm pool. I didn't see any wildlife other than a few snails, and I made it my goal to swim to the waterfall. It took my a surprisingly long time to realize that I was swimming very hard and moving very slowly. Hell, I swim three days a week most weeks! What was going on?! Yeah, water... the water kept pushing me out. I gave up swimming to the falls and headed to a rock beside them. I caught my breath there and just immersed myself in the moment. It was fantastic. Feeling like King of the World I threw myself back into the water and let the current push me back to shore.
Fantastic.
A Carabao Cooling Off
Refreshing!
Carabao on Film! In Water!!!
Rice Terraces
Rice to the Sea
I did the aforementioned hellish trek out of the valley and then we headed away on the bike. We stopped so I could get some photos of some Carabao resting in a stream, and of the rice terraces. We made it back to the main road and continued south. We headed through Naval (where my driver put on his helmet just prior to us clearing a police checkstop -- it appears all the bikers put their helmets on before the checkstops and then take them off again...), through the village of Biliran, and onwards to a village called Casiawan (Cash-eye-wan). It was there we found the Casiawan Falls. These falls are closer to town and have been turned into a little day-type resort. We paid our 20 pesos each (about 1 CAD for the two of us) and headed down the concrete steps to the valley floor. It was deserted and it was breathtaking. The Casiawan Falls have two parts. First, the water is flung off of a high cliff where it turns into mist as it descends, and second, the mist, regrouping at the bottom of the cliff, continues down in a brilliant set of rapids. That is all the description you get, I think it is obvious that I liked this waterfall as I have about 1000 photos of it with only minor differences between them -- take a look.
Biking through Naval
Welcome
On Foot to Casiawan
Casiawan Overview
Casiawan Falls
The Upper Falls
Upper Casiawan
Crash
Mystery Bug
Mist
Upper Casiawan in the Rain
The Red Flower
I crossed the river and headed to the upper part of the falls. It was wet, and walking through the jungle I stood on a log that collapsed and I managed to fall flat on my face (my knee still has a small scab on it). Anyways, I made it up, I stood in the mist, I hid my camera from a brief deluge, and I headed back down. Before I knew it we were back on the bike and headed back.
Biking Back from Casiawan (Scenic)
People often ask when I come back from foreign countries "did you learn the language?" My answer was for China, and is for the Philippines... no. I didn't learn the language. Then they ask "well how did you manage?" Ladies and Gentlemen, I speak the language of Adventure, and that language is universal.
I returned, inventoried nice sunburns on my knees, hands, and a lovely tan line from the collar of my shirt and from my necklace, and then trained the afternoon away.
Sunday November 20th, 2011
So it was Sunday, that means that the night prior was Saturday, which meant that people were blasting music into the middle of the night. I mean, honestly, people are living in home made huts, they are barely getting enough food, there are three street lights in the entire town, and yet, they all have mobile phones and they all seem to have huge effing speakers which they blast as loudly as possible. "Hey, look at me, I am playing my speakers so loud so you know how affluent I am," "Hey, look at me, it is Sunday now, listen to the worship music I am playing from the Church... what do you mean it sounds like pop music?!" It is just crazy. Like their fiestas. There are two kinds of people, people who go to every fiesta to get free food, and people who host fiestas to give the appearance of wealth (and it is often just the appearance).
Overall it was a good day. We relaxed, watched TV (which lost its signal during the rain), and I finished going through the Kage Ryu techniques, getting many pointers from Sensei that I have translated into many notes.
Training
We were listening to music for a while and the first song that came on was February Song -- it made me think of my February Friend. Amazing, how some people can touch yours lives in such a way that you can be on the other side of the World, immersed in one of the greatest adventures of your life, and yet, it a few simple notes your mind and heart belong to them.
Monday November 21st, 2011
Ok, O... M... G... Last night, there was a huge spider in my room. It started with us watching True Blood. Jocelyn and I saw something sprint across the floor. I thought it was just a lizard and wasn't worried so I thought nothing of it. It was when I headed to bed I thought something of it. It was big and it was fast. It was certainly bigger than most tarantulas but skinnier. I don't know where it came from, I just know that one moment there was nothing, and the next, I was chasing it around the room with a bucket, trying to squash it. I tried for a few minutes then went for reinforcements. Jocelyn went in and as the spider sprinted from one hiding space to another we both jumped (and likely screamed like little girls... what?! I'm man enough to admit it!). Colin came in next and as we cornered it he managed to get in a maiming blow with a broom type thing. He took it out and we were free... this really reminded me that I needed to shake out each piece of clothing I had before putting it back in my bag... Yuck!!!
That day Sensei and I headed into the jungle with our bolos (machetes -- I bought two to bring home). The wood in the Philippines is quite soft, and with a solid strike you can cut down 10" banana trees in one fell swoop (but, only if you have proper technique!). This was spectacular cutting practice. We went and cleared out some jungle (that would replenish itself in a few weeks) and practiced and practiced and practiced.
A Baby Banana
That Same Banana Days Later
Cutting Down Banana (um... yeah... I forgot how to flip this right side up... just bend your neck...)
I should mention that since I arrived in the Philippines I had not needed pain killers. The climate did wonders for my back and shoulder and I will living mostly pain free (mostly). Unfortunately as time went on the pain was slowly creeping back in and the practice cutting didn't help, but oh how it helped my technique!
We relaxed in the afternoon and enjoyed True Blood and fruit shakes.
Just as a side note, these are the sounds of the jungle...
The Sound of the Jungle at Night
The Sound of the Jungle in the Morning
Tuesday November 22nd, 2011
I am fairly certain that this day never actually happened. I don't have an entry in my journal, and I know I wrote in it every day I was in the Philippines, ergo, the day never happened. Strange.
Oh well, one less day of vacation...
:(
Anyways to appease your not being bored please enjoy some pictures of Colin's Coy Pool:
Colin's Coy
Reflection
Water Letuce
Hungry Coy
Finger Feeding
Also, using the date stamps on my photos I have determined that on this day we took a drive around the island... well, that was the direction we took, we really only made it to its northish tip to the village of Ungale. But yeah, a sunken ship and great beauty:
Sunken Ship
Island through the Brush
Baby Coconut
Working the Fields
Out of the Grass
The Islands (From Jocelyn's old houce)
Sky and Sea
Private Beach
Winona (back at home)
Giving Winona a Banana!
Feeding Winona
Based on the timestamps this was evidently also the day we went to Naval to have some barbecue and watch the sunset. You head in, pick your meat skewers and just sit and wait as they cook them and bring them forth. Ye-haw!
At the Barbecue
Barbecue Sunset
The Chef
Sailing Across Sunset
Poleing to Paradise
Sky
Villagers
Wednesday November 23rd, 2011
On this day I trained in Hyoho Niten Ichi Ryu. All of my notes seem to be on Niten which clearly means that I must not have done anything else on this day... oh my devotion to the arts and sublime concentration!!!
Puppy Resting (often he would lay down by us when I was training...)
My picture time and date stamps have reminded me what we did on this day... wow, don't get me wrong, clearly I still trained all day because this activity was in the evening. There was a brownout after supper, and seeing as there was nothing to do, and it was too early for bed, we found something to do...
Sensei's Horn
Trick of the Light
A Firefly!
A Firefly in Better Light
Fireflies Found!
Candle Light
Thursday November 24th, 2011
One of the issues with driving everywhere is that you only every get to see things very fast. There is no looking back, no reflection, and no opportunity to take photographs (which is part of my passion for adventure). With that in mind I had Colin drop me off in Almeria as he took the car to get the brakes checked. From there to Matanggo it is about 6 km... 6 km that I did on foot and with camera in hand.
Allow the pictures to take over where words clearly fail:
Almeria Walk
Out to Sea
Welcome to Almeria
A Typical Field
A Typical Worker
Carabao
A Hidden Flower
Carabao and Cranes
(I wish I got a photo of the crane standing on the Carabao, which happens from time to time!)
The Biliran Rainbow
A Homely View
Streets of the Barangay
Streets on Foot
One Guards Many
Almeria's Pier
The Church
Focus
The Park
Il Divo
Lone Carabao
Mom and Kid
Kid
Another Village
Matanggo!
Peeking
Family in the Bushes
A Perch
A Better Perch
In Matanggo
Matanggo Streets
Sunny Palms
Matanggo's Church
Outside the House (Tour)
Inside the House (Tour)
If you want to learn about a people, or see their culture as it is, that is the way to do it. Nothing there but feet and walking. I walked through the villages, I walked passed their homes, their fields, their schools, churches, etc. That is how they live. Some people live in huts made of sticks. Some people live in buildings of hollow block. Some people drive cars. Some people walk. Some people go to school. Some people help their parents to provide. You see it all.
I did not take many photos, as I was trying to commit it all to memory, but please, take a look at the ones I do have and hopefully it will give you a taste of the Philippines.
On a side note, I have never been more popular than in the Philippines. I have been called handsome by a few different women (Jocelyn translated) and I have certainly caught more eyes than that... however, being so undeniably attractive is a double edged sword, as I appeared to also have caught the eyes of more than a few men and some of the Bayots (transexuals -- of which there are many).
When I returned we had a quick lunch and then I jumped into my training for the afternoon.
Friday November 24th, 2011
It was this day that I was supposed to go up the mountain, however, since I had been in the Philippines the weather was not spectacular. For me, a frigid Canadian, it was Heaven, but in general the weather was poor. It rained every day. This meant that the jungle was wet. Do you recall when I mentioned that I fell on my face as Casiawan Falls? That was because even with a little water the rocks become so slippery there is no way to get a grip. Because of the weather, there was no way up the mountain, and the expedition had to be cancelled. This does not dampen my spirits however, as with every destination you must leave one adventure unadventured so that there is always reason to return.
The mountain is my reason.
Sensei instructed me for the last time this trip as I continued my training in Niten Ichi Ryu. I have taken many notes and hope to bring that information and knowledge back to the few practitioners we have scattered around Canada. Thank you Sensei, as always.
I packed my bags (better than the first time, which was surprising, and amazing!), and enjoyed my last shake, my last afternoon, and my last evening with Colin and Jocelyn.
Saturday November 25th, 2011
The trip home started on this day 12:30 am... wait... sorry... that was when the rooster next door thought it was morning and began crowing. I should have mentioned this earlier but that damn rooster crows every morning at 12:30ish am, and by 3:30 am he has alllll of the roosters crowing with him. I was advised to bring and wear ear plugs to drown out the roosters and the viedoke when I slept so that is what I did... but not on this night... on this night I battled the noisy roosters for sleep and at 4:15 am. I was up and packing and getting ready to go. By 5:00 am we were in the car, and by 7:30 am we were in Ormoc. I said my good-byes to Colin and Jocelyn (which are always challenging) and bought my ticket for the ferry. By around 11:15 am I had landed in Cebu City, and by noon I had just finished my lunch at the Diplomat Hotel.
Biliran
The Bridge to Leyte
The Philippines
The Diplomat
I took a cab to Gaisano Country Mall where I was to buy my souvenirs, since there were very little available on Biliran (since it is more than a little off the beaten path). I bought some wooden sculptures, some jewelry, and some shells. Due to the favourable exchange rate I bought everything in sight and still only managed to spend under 100 Canadian dollars.
Done Shopping for Swag
I dropped off my swag at the hotel, and took a mental picture of its volume. I headed to a nearby department store and purchased a bag to carry all of my fresh swag. I took my time taping up the shells nicely to protect them and began to pack once more.
I took a shower (my first in two weeks, since I was bucket showering at Colin's), had some amazing Thai food, and had a short nap. I got my wake up call from reception and I checked out of the hotel.
Everything was going so well, but you know, nothing can go entirely as planned. When I got to the airport the Philippino Customs people confiscated my bag of that super amazing coral and shells that I mentioned back when we were snorkeling. They said it was because it was endangered which seemed like a strange response to me. Usually you can take what you find on the beach, and usually not all kinds of coral are endangered. There are specific ones that certainly need to be protected, but usually not all. My theory is that it is protectionism, since I was allowed to keep the shells that I purchased, but my theory is irrelevant.
I surrendered the shells and continued home without them.
Thoroughly disheartened, since some of my gift ideas were based around those shells and coral, I paid my 550 pesos ($13.00 CAD) to exit the country, headed to a restaurant, and drowned my sorrows in a coke that cost 180 pesos ($4.50 CAD)
Sundaaaayyyyyyy November 26th, 2011
You may have noticed that I don't seem to have the firmest grip on which day is which, well this is where the feces gets flung fanward. By the time I boarded my flight from Cebu City back to Seoul it was 12:45 am. This meant that I had been on the go for 20ish hours already, and this was just the beginning. This is gonna feel like a really long day, and it was a really long day, partly because I had been travelling forever, and partly because I crossed the International Date Line which means that Sunday was really just about two Sundays in length.
Wow that is confusing.
Incheon International Airport
OMG, you have no idea how badly I want to go to Phuket right now!
Right, anyways I had breakfast in Korea. I was going to have Korean food but I couldn't figure out how to order so I headed to McDonalds. Now, here is something amazing. People often get long lay overs in Korea as it is a major gateway into/out of Asia. Because of this their tourism department had created called a "Transit Tour." There are tours of different lengths, but the one that would be the best for me was a 6 hour tour that cost $40 USD (which is almost nothing when you consider what I got in return), and would take me from the airport, to a famous stream running through the city, to a palace (UNESCO World Heritage Site), to a genuine Korean restaurant (meal included of course), to a shopping street, to an active Buddhist temple, and finally, back to the airport. $40!!!
The Stream through Seoul
The Waterfall
Cheonggyecheon Stream
Steps
So first we headed to Cheonggyecheon Stream. The stream flows through Seoul and was once dirty and polluted. One of Seoul's Mayors came up with the idea to clean up the stream and make it a beautiful park for everyone to enjoy -- so that's what they did. We took a walk around, took some photos, and were briefly exposed to about a hundred people making Kimchi... on that note, a few of my tour mates may have just ended up on Korean national television for their taste test of the Kimchi in progress...
The Film Crew
Making Kimchi
We hopped back on the bus and were on the move again. Seoul has two palaces in the city, and we were headed to Changdeokgung Palace which was actually in use until 1987 by the last Princess of the Korean Royal Bloodline. The line died with her.
Seoul's Palace (Well... one of two...)
Into the Palace
The Long Path
The Throne
Detail
Onlookers
The Man in the Courtyard
Columns
Deserted
Intricacies
A Peaceful Place
The Door in the Wall
The Main Square
The palace reminded me of those I had seen in China but the tour guide pointed out some distinctive features that differed from Chinese palaces. No matter what it resembled, it was amazing. The palace was enormous and truer in a way than many restored palaces, since this one had been in use until just recently.
You could easily spend a day going over the entire palace, but we didn't have a day, we had six hours!
Our Bus and Guide
Beef Stew (Still Boiling!!!)
The bus took us to Insadong, which is a shopping street with cultural goods and antiques. We went to a restaurant there where we enjoyed a fresh and genuine Korean meal. I had the beef stew, and you have never seen hot stew until you see it boiling rigourously in your bowl. We had a very limited time frame to eat and shop so I scarfed down a heap of the delicious stew and headed out into the street. I saw a few things that interested me moderately, but I didn't have that much to spend. Money doesn't go as far in Korea as it does in the Philippines so my $100 USD was going to buy me about what $100 CAD would buy me back home. C'est la vie. I continued looking for something to catch my eye, and when I was about to turn back to head to the bus I found it.
Insadong Shopping Street
It was a spectacular piece of art including a small shadow box with two wooden crane carvings within. The woman assured me that it was done by a famous Korean artist who is famous for their work with wood. Maybe it was, maybe not, but it was stunning and if I had to spend all my money and then some on it that is what I would do. The woman and I bartered briefly, which was interesting because we were in a store and prices were set, but if I paid in cash she would give me a decent discount. She said it was a slow day and she wanted a sale; who was I to complain?! I bought that piece, and deeply satisfied I headed back to the bus. I did manage to pick up one more item as I headed to the bus. It was a half decent scroll/painting, but really I just didn't want Korean cash left over (yeah... I am out of room on my walls already...).
Jogyesa Temple
Active Temple
Back at the bus we had one more stop before returning to the airport. The final stop on the tour was visiting an active Buddhist temple called Jogyesa Temple. I had seen many temples in China, but it was nice to see one elsewhere. Every region seems to have its own take on Buddhism and it is fascinating to see the differences. I tried to take some photos subtly as I dodged people praying or circling the pagoda for luck; the pagoda which is rumoured to have a piece of Siddhartha Gautama (the original Buddha) buried beneath.
Prayer
Siddhartha's Pagoda
The Temple Roof
There was that mystical feeling about as people quietly ignored us and went about their prayers. It is those times when you really have to believe that there is more out there than just logic and knowledge; you can't not.
Out to Korea!
The Incheon International Airport Gardens
Fellow Onlookers (from my tour group actually)
We were on the bus once more and then back at the airport. Our posse split up as some people had to catch their planes immediately. I went to the indoor gardens to amuse myself for a time and then headed into the security line (don't get me wrong, I was tempted to try out the skating rink, but I was also tempted to get some supper before the long flight on the longest Sunday).
Incheon Airport Gardens
The Gardens
Bowls of Brilliance
Vines Asunder
The Bridge
In the airport I took some time and learned how to order Korean food. Yeah... when they say spicy... they really, really mean it!
Live Entertainment (Best Airport Ever!!!)
More Music!!!
It wasn't long before I was on the plane, and thanks to the assistance of some sleeping pills, it wasn't long before I was off to sleep (thank goodness, because I sure can't sleep on planes without... aid). I woke up here for a meal, and there for a drink, and then we were rushing in on the Seattle Airport.
This is always confusing to me, but I was told that I needed to clear US Customs and then I could re-security check myself and wait for my flight to Edmonton. I grabbed my bags, headed to the customs people, and then found myself pulled out of the line to have my baggage checked. This was the second time in that day... really not my day!
Anyways, it didn't really matter, I didn't have anything to hide. The customs officer was a young man and he was quite pleasant as he searched through absolutely everything on me. I had a bit of a start there when my 899 PHP suitcase lock wasn't opening, but I got it open and he checked on everything. It is always fun explaining that you are carrying two machetes... tools, not weapons! He did manage to find a few Caballero seed pods that I had forgotten were jammed in there (to see if they would grow in pots in the house -- since sealed seed pods usually aren't a problem). Well, today they were a problem and agriculture decided that they needed to be confiscated. Oh well, the officer apologized, I understood, no issue. I managed to re-pack my bags and check them in and go through security and then go to wait for my flight. I had some Scallops and chips and then I was en route to Edmonton.
I saw the snow flying by the window as we came in, and I felt the dry cold as soon as the plane opened its doors. Oh Canada! I grabbed my bags, headed to customs, and found myself pulled out of the line again!!! Honestly! three countries in one day! WTF?!
The customs officer asked if I had been searched before. I said yes. He asked if there were any issues. I said there weren't. He said he was gonna have to search me anyways. I said I know. He was very polite, just as the US customs officer was. He had me unlock my bags and then he poked through them. I asked him why I was getting searched so much, it was not my first time being searched, but it was first time being searched on the home front. He said that Southeast Asia is where a great deal of contraband comes from and that I just happened to fit the profile of someone who was likely to be carrying such contraband into the country. Great, I knew I could have shaved... I mean, my Movember moustache looks pretty sketchy, but really, I look like a smuggler?! I don't know if I should be insulted or proud!
The Look of a Smuggler
Up to no Good
The gentleman finished the search and I was released.
What a day. I headed to my truck (trudging through the snow and cold) and then headed down to Leduc and to my most important destination: 7-11.
7-11
With a slurpee in hand I made the rest of the drive, and the tail end of my 50+ hour trip, with a smile on my face. Home sweet home.
Epilogue
Despite my trying journey I did manage to acquire a decent amount of cultural swag to cover my already full walls...
Carvings
Shells
The Most Delicate of Shells
Shadow Box from Korea
It was an amazing trip. I am glad, very glad, to have been able to spend time with my friend and teacher Watkin Sensei. I hope that we get to see each other again soon!
Sensei and I
